Swaledale: A Local’s Ramble Through Waterfalls, Barns, Bonkers Passes & Hidden Corners of the Northern Dales
Most folks think of Swaledale as “that valley with loads of barns”, or the place you nip through on the way to Buttertubs Pass. But the truth is: Swaledale is one of the most characterful, off-kilter, quietly dramatic parts of the Yorkshire Dales — full of waterfalls tucked into folds of land, tiny tributaries that go bonkers after a bit of rain, steep-sided gills, forgotten footpaths, stone barns perched at slightly ridiculous angles, and views that make you pull over, swear gently, and reach for the camera.
I’ve mooched around here for years, sometimes with a tripod, sometimes just to blow the cobwebs off. So this isn’t a posh “Visitor Authority” guide — it’s just everything I’ve found useful, interesting, or downright cracking in Swaledale. If it helps you plan a day out, brilliant. If you end up discovering even more spots I’ve missed, even better.
What makes Swaledale such a brilliant valley to explore?
Because it’s wild, narrow, packed with waterfalls, and full of those iconic stone barns — all in one driveable stretch.
Swaledale is the most northerly of the Yorkshire Dales and somehow feels the most rugged. Narrow lanes twist through drystone walls; the upper valley is almost gorge-like; and around every corner is either a waterfall, a pasture dotted with barns, or some old bridge that’s been clinging on since the Vikings popped round.
It’s brilliant whether you’re a photographer, a walker, or someone who just wants to sit in the car with a sandwich shouting “Look at that!” every five minutes.
Where should you start if you want to see the upper valley’s waterfalls?
Head straight to Keld — the unofficial waterfall capital of the Dales.
If you’re the type who likes to start big, the upper end of Swaledale is where the fun begins. My favourite kick-off point is Wain Wath Force, right by the roadside near Keld. It’s only about five feet tall, but it spreads the width of the River Swale like a natural curtain. There’s parking, space to faff about, and even a little riverside “beach” you can stand on.
From there, you can stroll down to the bridge on Stonesdale Lane, where the view upriver is full of little cascades dancing through boulders.
And if you wander past the Keld Bunkbarn and yurts, you’ll hit another waterfall — taller, maybe 10–15 feet, tucked into a fold of rock. No idea why it isn’t famous. Probably a Yorkshire thing: “Aye, it’s grand, but don’t make a fuss.”
There’s also a waterfall further up Stonesdale Beck, hidden in the trees. The scramble is a bit off-piste, but if you enjoy feeling like you’re on Clarkson’s Farm trying to find a footpath that “definitely used to be here”, it’s worth a look.
What other hidden falls sit around Keld — and why is it such a hotspot?
Because four rivers and becks all converge here, so the water has no choice but to show off.
Once you’ve had your fill of Wain Wath and the Stonesdale bits, nip down to Rukin’s Campsite in Keld. There’s parking, toilets, a café, and a whole constellation of waterfalls within a five-minute wander.
1. The Wide, Low Falls Behind Rukin’s
Just behind the campsite you get another broad, easy-going waterfall — brilliant after rain when the river fattens up.
2. East Gill Force (Top + Bottom Sections)
- Top section: classic 20-foot waterfall, central plunge, boulders everywhere, loads of platforms to look from.
- Lower section: cascades and quieter pools as East Gill meets the Swale.
3. Kisdon Force
A few paths peel off from the main track to reveal a series of waterfalls and plunge pools squeezed between steep woodland. It feels like a hidden swimming spot from a National Geographic spread.
Where are the classic barns and big valley views everyone loves?
Between Keld, Angram, Thwaite and Muker — basically the whole mid-valley.
The drive from Keld to Thwaite, then onwards to Angram and Muker, is barn country. Some sit proudly in the open; some lean into slopes; some hide behind folds in the valley.
What makes it magic is the combination of rolling fields, twisting dry-stone walls, sweeping valley shapes, and barns placed almost comically perfectly for views.
Is Crackpot Force really as good as it sounds — and how do you find it?
Yes — and it’s hiding just outside Muker.
“Crackpot Force” wins Best Name in the Dales. It’s tucked up a narrow lane and easy to miss, but the cascade is charming — stepped, tree-hugged, and brilliantly atmospheric. After rain, the tributaries around it go wild.
What are the three mountain passes into Wensleydale — and which have the best views?
Butter Tubs Pass is the headline act, but the two roads to Askrigg are beautifully desolate.
1. Buttertubs Pass
Steep bends, 50–60ft limestone potholes, and one of the best viewpoints in the Dales as you crest the top.
2. The Western Road to Askrigg
Lonely, wide-open views. Sheep staring at you like you owe them rent.
3. The Eastern Road to Askrigg
Even more remote. Big-sky country with proper wind-you-off-your-feet moments.
Why doesn’t Swaledale really work for sunset — and where should you go instead?
The valley drops into shadow long before sunset — so you need to climb out of it.
The sides are so steep that golden hour disappears behind the hills well before the sun actually sets. So you need to head upward.
1. Top of Buttertubs Pass
Look back down the valley for a dramatic, narrow V-shaped view.
2. Wensleydale Side of the Pass
Huge views plus Ingleborough in the distance — cracking at sunset.
3. Semerwater
A calm, reflection-friendly spot if you’re a bit early.
FAQ: A Few Handy Bits If You’re Exploring Swaledale for the First Time
Is Reeth worth stopping at? Yes — it’s the biggest village in the valley and has a great big green with pubs around it.
Are the waterfalls accessible? Keld’s are easy; Kisdon is steeper; Stonesdale Beck’s upper falls are an adventure.
Is there much traffic? Usually not. Upper Swaledale often feels pleasantly empty.
Where do you park?
- Roadside near Wain Wath Force
- Rukin’s Campsite for multiple falls
- Muker car park for Crackpot Force
- Lay-bys on Buttertubs Pass
Do the falls run well in summer? Best after rain, but East Gill, Kisdon and Wain Wath always have something going on.
Final Thought
Swaledale is one of those valleys that looks simple on a map but reveals itself slowly — waterfall by waterfall, barn by barn, corner by corner. You can spend a whole day here and feel like you’ve barely scratched the surface. Or you can dip in for an hour and walk away thinking, “How the hell is this not busier?”
Either way, it rewards curiosity. And if you find a hidden gem I haven’t mentioned, let me know — I love being shown summat new.